Vereda do Larano: Amazing Coastal Hike On Madeira Island

The Vereda do Larano hike is an awesome coastal hike on Madeira that follows a cliff-side route along the eastern side of the island. You can enjoy the huge drop-off to the ocean below all from the safety of a well-maintained trail on the side of the mountain. The hike is 13 kilometers one way from Caniçal to Porto da Cruz with only a little bit of incline so it’s great for families or casual hikers. It can also be done as a 10km out and back from the trailhead on the Porto da Cruz side.

HOW TO GET TO THE VEREDA DO LARANO HIKE

The hike can be a point-to-point trail (as I did) or an out and back the regular way. This means it is 13 kilometers in one direction or 10km out and back. Therefore, you can do it in either direction. I did this hike several times and prefer to get the 5-kilometer levada section out of the way first and then enjoy finishing up in Porto da Cruz for a bite to eat rather than finishing in a random neighborhood of Machico (where you begin). You will need a second car or what we did was call an Uber once we arrived in Porto da Cruz and it was just 12 kilometers back to the car on the roads so the Uber cost just 10 Euros.

On the map below, I’ve pinned the exact trailhead for the Vereda do Larano hike if you are planning to hike from the Machico side first. You can find some limited parking in the neighborhood where the trailhead is found. The trail begins near the old tunnel, which connects Machico to Caniçal. This path was the connecter from Machico to Porto da Cruz for many years throughout history and was used frequently by locals to travel between the two towns.

MY EXPERIENCE ON THE VEREDA DO LARANO HIKE

Madeira has lots of incredible hikes but I didn’t quite expect a coastal trail like this. Following the trail along the cliffside had me thinking back to my days in Hawaii. The great part about this hike is that you get to enjoy incredible coastal views from the side of the cliff for many kilometers but the trail is quite safe with a wide path so it’s not a dangerous trek for the views.

As I mentioned earlier, it’s a point-to-point hike in which most people begin at the tunnel on the Machico side. We parked the car in the neighborhood and found the small entrance to the Levada next to one of the local houses. There was no huge sign but it’s accurately depicted on all maps.

*You can hike from the Porto da Cruz side as on out and back, which is a popular way but I always prefer point to point or loop hikes so I don’t repeat the scenery.

The first five kilometers of this hike are quite simple as you follow the Levada do Caniçal to Boca do Risco. Don’t judge this hike on how it starts but judge it on the coastal section of the trail. You begin with pretty average views as you wind through some of the upper parts of Machico. You’ll pass by many rural homes and can see how many locals still farm their own vegetables and tend to their land. I always enjoy seeing what the locals are growing in areas like this.

The trail deviates only once from the levada and that is when you see a sign on your right-hand side for Boca do Risco. Make sure to take this right-hand turn up the slight hill. If you want to visit Boca do Risco on a more adventurous route you can check out another hike I did in this region: ESPIGÃO AMARELO: EPIC COASTAL RIDGE HIKE

The final moments of the walk through the hills are quite interesting because you are passing through farms and dense vegetation. The strange part is that you are only a few hundred meters from the ocean but cannot see it, hear it, or even imagine it is nearby. So after five kilometers on this trail, when you see the Vereda do Larano sign, it is quite a beautiful surprise to arrive at the cliff-edge with coastal views.

From this point on you are following the cliff-side trail all the way along the coast down to Porto da Cruz. It’s the highlight of the hike and one of the most amazing sections of the coastal trail on Madeira Island. Before you set off on the trail, take some time to enjoy the viewpoints at this T-intersection. It’s a great spot for a snack and a drink break to break up the 13-kilometer journey.

To give you an idea of what the coastline looks like, these aerial photos really put it into perspective. You can see the Penha d’Àguia rock formation in the distance beyond Porto da Cruz. Basically, that is where you are hiking so it’s quite nice to see the trail from above and get an idea of where this hike will lead you.

The journey then begins for 5 kilometers down the coast. Although it is a rugged and rocky cliff beneath you, the path is surrounded by dense forest and you will even pass one small waterfall. There are wildflowers hiding in the forest and lots of incredible trees and plants to take in. I thought it was quite unique to be on a trail within such lush greenery while right next to the ocean.

There are a few sections with no railing near the drop-off to the cliff edge but the trail is always wide in these parts and quite flat. I wouldn’t think anyone would have too much trouble here, especially if you hike slowly and stay close to the inside wall. As you can see below, it’s a wide and flat path so just take care and all should be good.

Unfortunately, the trail does cut back onto a paved road for a final couple of kilometers to Porto da Cruz. The official map says to follow the main road all the way into town but if you check my map with the link above, you can see it’s possible to use a small levada and walk into Porto da Cruz along the beach road, which is a much more scenic way to finish this hike.

Once you make it to Porto da Cruz, there are a number of nice cafes and restaurants for a little meal or coffee after your coastal hike. I enjoyed a great meal at the beachfront cafe called, Restaurante Praça do Engenho, which has incredible views back across the beach to Vereda Larano. From here, we called an Uber who dropped us back at our original starting point in upper Machico for 10 Euros.

ADVENTURE BAG FROM THE VEREDA DO LARANO HIKE

This is an adventure bag. It is full of trash. Every time I go on an adventure I collect one adventure bag full of trash. It’s my small way of saying thanks to mother nature for allowing me to enjoy her beautiful creations. If we have time to go on an adventure we have time to collect an adventure bag on the way back out of the trail once we have enjoyed the waterfall, the hike, or the beach. Adventure hard!

I hope you enjoyed this guide to Vereda do Larana and Levada do Caniçal. Happy hiking and stay safe out there.

WONDERING ABOUT WHERE TO STAY ON MADEIRA?

Throughout my six months on Madeira Island, I stayed in multiple accommodations. My favorite regions to stay in were Funchal and Canico de Baixo. I’ve created several guides to help you find the right region for you and a great hotel or apartment.

• The ultimate guide: WHERE TO STAY ON MADEIRA: WHICH REGION IS RIGHT FOR YOU?
• If you want luxury: BEST 5-STAR LUXURY HOTELS ON MADEIRA ISLAND
• To feel at home: TOP 10 BOUTIQUE HOTELS ON MADEIRA ISLAND
• If you want to base in Funchal: WHERE TO STAY IN FUNCHAL: 15 TOP-RATED HOTELS

HAVE YOU READ MY OTHER MADEIRA BLOGS?

I spent six months exploring Madeira and the nearby island of Porto Santo. These are some of my most popular guides about the region that you may be interested in.

• My favorite hikes: 65 AWESOME HIKES ON MADEIRA
• My favorite levada walks: 25 BEAUTIFUL LEVADA WALKS ON MADEIRA
• The best waterfalls on the island: 25 EPIC WATERFALLS ON MADEIRA
• Guide to the best Accommodation: WHERE TO STAY ON MADEIRA
• Hardest hike: THE MADEIRA ISLAND ULTRA TRAIL IN 4 DAYS (115KM)
• Longest hike: CAMINHO REAL 23: MADEIRA’S ROYAL PATH (180KM)